A guide to using a light meter with manual flash & ambient light
Dec 07, · Learn how to use a light meter to set up your studio flash lightscorrectly. This video shows you step by step what to do when using alight meter. It is an im. Holding down the the MODE button, set your meter to flash metering mode (the lightning symbol; not the sun symbol, which is ambient metering). Your meter now reacts only to flash. Set the meter to ISO and to 1/th second (if those are your desired values). Hold the meter, with the white dome extended, where the subject will be.
On strobes you have to do it that way; on speedlights you can. Then use a flash meter. That is how you meter a studio, type shot what causes my legs to feel weak the one above. I usually meter each light separately and allow for that e. Great article, thank you! Thank you. So I get twice as much light exactly. That means one stop more lights. So my camera has to deal with one stop more light so I have to stop at done more.
One step more than 5. The main apertura numbers are all exactly one stop the fight. Like 5. Thank you for putting this so clearly. I have generally been an available light shooter with my manual Leicas M4-P models. Then a kind soul bought me a SF20 flash. Results indoors? I really need a response on this……I have been doing this for two days…. If you are using ttl, then yes, you are reading the pre-flash. So first, ensure no flash is using ttyl.
Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Your explanation is very clear and equally concise. What exactly are you using? Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published.
Photo gear (or equivalents) used in this photo session
Nov 21, · It will be just slightly off center when you have your camera oriented in portrait mode. To read the flash exposure, set the hand held meter to “incident” mode, and the exposure on the “flash non-cord” setting (do not use the corded or triggered setting). This will read the light falling on the subject when the flash is makingoz.comted Reading Time: 8 mins. May 31, · Art will be complete only when it is supported by proper Craft. A Flashmeter is an instrument which help you perfect the Craft of photography by assessing th. Dec 19, · I want to use a Sekonic L light meter to measure the exposure settings for a three light setup comprised of: Three Canon EXII’s (in slave mode) controlled via one EXII (master mode) on a 5DMkII. In this setup the master is set to not flash i.e. it is disabled. The L is in the “cordless flash” mode.
A question posted on the Tangents forum was on the topic of exactly how to use a light meter to get to correct settings for manual flash. This article covers that first tentative step in what exactly you should do with this brand-new light-meter in your hand. How exactly would you have used the flash meter with the strobe in manual mode to arrive at the correct settings to illuminate the model properly without changing your in-camera settings?
Values entered into the flash meter? That would be a function of aperture. Because you are running the flash in manual, which is not impacted by ISO or aperture, or shutter speed. The first part was to determine your background exposure.
Now that part is set. The next step is to add the correct amount of light onto your subject. So, your meter will already have the shutter speed and ISO set. Peter and David have it. While ISO does affect manual flash, we are seemingly happy with f3.
While shutter speed does not affect flash exposure as long as it is below maximum synch speed, it does affect ambient light. Therefore, any change to shutter speed would change the background exposure.
I think the same thing more or less applies to ISO. It would have been whatever was chosen to get the background properly exposed. Changing ISO would have affected the amount of ambient light.
Once the background has been properly exposed, any change to ISO, and aperture would have affected the ambient light. Simple and clear. Neil apparently is a master of all of that. ISO would effect both Flash and Ambient equally, so no point messing that unless you wanted to move both flash and ambient exposure in a particular direction.
Those you have decided on already. I have one question though — when determining the right exposure for the ambient when a flash is being used not just as fill light do you underexpose the background a little to make subject pop a little since flash is lighting that? That would be part of the decision before you add flash. Very clear explanation, Neil. Thank you. I would probably use several trial shots to find a flash power that delivers the right amount of light to my eye.
Is there a better way other than using a flash meter, of course? With flash meters, iso and shutter speed are fixed values you enter before metering. After that you just play with aperture and flash power to create your view and desired depth of field. We were happy with the chosen aperture, but had to figure out the flash exposure.
Clear explanation, One note though , actually, for completeness, I think you should mention ISO in your story, but only to set the lightmeter to the iso your are using in order to get the proper reading from it.
Justin, using a flash meter makes life soooo much easier, after buying my lightmeter I was immediately sold, and I wondered really why I even ever tried to guestimate with chimping and looking at the histogram. My exposures are now always exactly how I want them and consistent. I never could get that to work with using the histogram. Now I can work a lot faster, which saves a lot of waiting time for the model, and leaves me more time for creative activities instead of messing with settings.
Good point about needing to set the appropriate ISO in the meter. I have amended the article now with that specific step, since it is important to mention that to someone using a light-meter for the first time.
Hmm I see that I use both the wording flash meter and light meter. I actually should have used flash meter consistently every where in my post. Neil, feel free to change that. So I also tend to use it interchangeably. Ambient light is often the same where the photographer is and where the subject is unless in shade so you can just hold it up facing yourself in most cases. With the original decision inn wanting to clean up the light on my subject, or make it more dramatic, I want to use off-camera flash — then I under-expose the ambient light on my subject somewhat.
Maybe 1 stop, maybe 2 stops. Even 3 stops. THAT decision — the amount I want to under-expose my subject by, will dictate then how bright my background is. It gives me some leeway, but not that much ultimately that I could choose between both pastel-bright background colors OR super-saturated dark background. So usually it is decided this way — I under-expose the ambient on my subject by a stop, and then take a test-shot to see if I still like the background.
Then I might nudge it a bit brighter or darker … and then add flash. The next step is to hold the light-meter where your subject is going to stand. Now trigger the flash while pointing the flash meter at the light source. You need f3. Neil, totally new to flash meters. Bought an older Minolta one. Your quote from above states meter read F7. Seems F3.
Still confused Neil. Again, this light meter thing new to me. I generally, without meter…just shoot and chimp. It over-exposes by 2 stops. Which means you need to reduce the light. With flash you can. Only need F4 Neil?
I need a complete idiots guide, so to speak, from the gitgo, Okay, set my camera to What? Then my flash to what, then Merter. As you can plainly see Neil, metering not my field of expertise. Camera is on tripod. I want to meter the flash in the softbox. Where the heck do I even start? Camera setting? Do I then set Flash to manual same setting as camera? I set Meter to what Camera and flash seetings are? Then I fire flash and it gives me a reading? What do I do with it? Both camera and flash?
Where do you start with settings in this home-studio setup? YOU decide. That part is also confusing. Then meter the flash? Muscle memory they call it I think. Describing it to me doesnt really sink in.
I need to get with a photographer in my area and have him physically show me the procedure in studio. Thanks for trying anyway. But really, set a teddy bear on a stool in your living room. Set up your flash with a softbox or an umbrella, or even just an off-camera flash bouncing behind into the room.
Then work methodically through this article. I think I may have to simply keep on chimping. Seems to work. I thought a light meter would make things a tad easier for me. Just confuses me more. Thank you so much for trying to explian it to me. Very patient person considering how busy i know you are. Take care Neil! There are a ton of free videos and tutorials on the sekonic site that will help you learn better with step by step instructions. Ron, I think you can understand thinking as follows: if the flash has a lot of power, is required a small lens aperture to achieve exposure.
Conversely, when the flash power is less, then a larger lens opening is necessary. I have five similar questions about gear and how important they are for a fulltime pro portraiture and wedding photographer like you. Nikon 85 1.